Clark's Corvair Parts, Inc. - Corvair Parts Catalog - Over 12,000 parts

WARNING: Products on this page can expose you to a chemical, which is known to the St ate of California to cause cancer or reproductive harm. **For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov**

150 OR 180 TURBO?? What made the difference? The carburetors were a little different. The head chambers were a little different but 95% of the total differ-

ence is in the size of the inner ends of the blades on the exhaust turbines & impellers and the enlarging necessary inside their respective housings. Outward appearance,

size, and fit are basically identical.

WHAT'S NORMAL?

GAS MILEAGE : With stock carburetor – 15-22 MPG

ENGINE TEMP: Example – 60MPH in 80° temperature, approximately 400 (normal range you can expect is 350–475 ). The original gauges are not the greatest and a

lot of things affect the temperature.

BOOST: A strange creature. It varies depending on engine RPM, load, and temperature. I have never seen boost from just revving a Turbo. Even in first, the boost will

seldom come on until 4500 RPM or higher; 2

gear is about the same. 3

gear and 4

gear about 2800–3500 RPM, but again, it varies on how hot, if going up a hill,

down a hill, or on level ground! The gauge should read about ½ to ¾ of the way into the positive side. (The numbers don't really mean much. You probably are not

getting that much boost!) If yours only goes to "0" you need a rebuild or at least a "clean out" of carbon.

OIL USE: Turbo's do generally use more oil than other Corvairs.

USE: Be sure that at least once a week to make that Turbo come on. If you don't, they carbon up.

REBUILDS: TIRED TURBO MOTOR? If your turbo motor has over 60,000 miles, it could probably use a rebuild. Turbo motors run hotter & use more oil

(past the turbo seals & rings.) You may find that you have good compression, have rebuilt the turbo & still don't seem to have much power. The 1964 we rebuilt only had

60,000 miles and had been previously owned by meticulous owners. When we pulled the heads, the intake ports were nearly choked off with oil, carbon and old fuel var

nish. One only had an opening of about ¼"! It still ran and the turbo would almost kick in, but what a difference after the rebuild!!! We also had about ½ cup of aluminum

flashing that we cleaned from between the fins.

A Turbo rebuild is not too bad if you have these tools – Large snap ring pliers, dial indicator, possibly a torch, and of course a Shop Manual. We can supply most of these

parts and/or rebuild your Turbo for you. Here, however, are a few of the tips we have picked up that aren't in the Shop Manual:

Left handed lock nut: Often we have to heat them to remove.

2. Exhaust impeller stuck in housing: Glass bead inside outlet side. Rotate if possible. Saturate with oil overnight and tap or press dead center of impeller with

handle of hammer (often necessary to heat housing where clamp goes).

3. 1962–64 impellers were supposed to be a press fit. 1965–66 were not, they just slip on and off.

4. Check housing where turbine shaft "piston ring" seal rides.

ADD A TURBO?? So you want to add a Turbo to a non-Turbo engine? First, you should realize that for best, long range results, an engine should be totally

designed for the Turbo. That's what Chevy dld. We have talked to people that have put Turbos on just about ever y combination. Here's a quick summary:

With Powerglide: The few I have talked to said it doesn't work out well.

80 & 95HP: Okay – a lot of modifying and final results about like a regular Turbo.

110 & 140HP : Dropping compression – Excellent results and durability.

Keeping stock compression – performance superior over stock Turbo, especially low end. Some loss of durability.

SUMMARY LIST: This list gives a detailed list of parts you will need to build a Turbo engine (including carburetor & exhaust systems) C7799 2 oz.

What's Different? 1962–63: Bigger connecting rods, nitrided crankshafts, special camshaft, special exhaust valves, bronze exhaust valve guides, special

heads (Turbo oil drain – right head, special heat sensor hole, left head compression), special exhaust, other minor changes.

Recommendation? If you want good long-term dependability and driveability, stay basically stock. If you MUST add a Turbo to a non-Turbo engine TRY to round

up all the parts before you actually decide to start. We can supply about 95% of the parts. The remaining 5% can be rough!

Turbo Crossover Pipe Hints

62–64 If you have a leak where the crossover fits into the inlet pipe, install the first clamp 1/8" from the end of the crossover pipe end.

Install a second clamp close to the first clamp and rotate 45–90 degrees.

65–66 Installation onto the inlet pipe is much easier if you can remove the manifold stud that is closest to the passenger side from both manifolds.

Turbo Fuel Return Parts – Separate Special Filter #2, page 46

Steel Line: See Pre-Bent Return Lines, page 47.

Rubber Hose: Enough for both ends of steel return line. For 1962–66 All Turbo. C687 8 oz.

Rubber "T": Connects to the gas tank vent tubes for the fuel return line. A MUST! Old ones

are usually brittle. Also order steel connector C9A that slides into C9R. Not used on some 1965-66.

Rubber T C9R 4 oz.

Steel Connector: Exact with end "beads" C9E 1 oz.

Steel Connector: Plain cut ends C9A 1 oz.

All Stainless Clamps: Both ends of C9R "T" C8207 2 oz.

Steel line to rubber hose C8206 1 oz. (C2564C suggested)

Original Clamps: 1962–64 Turbo. Original style clamps that fit better than most "small" gear clamps that are

usually too large. (Included in fuel return line kits on page 47) C2564C 2 oz. each

62–66 Pressure Retard Hose: 2 needed

62–65 Fuel Return Line: 4 needed

65–66 with Return Line as part of the tank: 5 needed

Clips: 62–64 (line to speedo cable) C688A 1 oz. each (9 needed)

65–66 (inside tunnel) C7125 1 oz. each (4 needed)

Turbo Tech Section

C9R C2564C

C9E

C2564C

C9R

C9A

C688A

C7125

C10888

iWARNING: Products on this page can expose you to a chemical, which is known to the St ate of California to cause cancer or reproductive harm. **For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov**54150 OR 180 TURBO?? What made the difference? The carburetors were a little different. The head chambers were a little different but 95% of the total differ-ence is in the size of the inner ends of the blades on the exhaust turbines & impellers and the enlarging necessary inside their respective housings. Outward appearance, size, and fit are basically identical.WHAT'S NORMAL? GAS MILEAGE : With stock carburetor - 15-22 MPG ENGINE TEMP: Example - 60MPH in 80? temperature, approximately 400 (normal range you can expect is 350-475 ). The original gauges are not the greatest and a lot of things affect the temperature. BOOST: A strange creature. It varies depending on engine RPM, load, and temperature. I have never seen boost from just revving a Turbo. Even in first, the boost will seldom come on until 4500 RPM or higher; 2nd gear is about the same. 3rd gear and 4th gear about 2800-3500 RPM, but again, it varies on how hot, if going up a hill, down a hill, or on level ground! The gauge should read about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way into the positive side. (The numbers don't really mean much. You probably are not getting that much boost!) If yours only goes to "0" you need a rebuild or at least a "clean out" of carbon. OIL USE: Turbo's do generally use more oil than other Corvairs. USE: Be sure that at least once a week to make that Turbo come on. If you don't, they carbon up.REBUILDS: TIRED TURBO MOTOR? If your turbo motor has over 60,000 miles, it could probably use a rebuild. Turbo motors run hotter & use more oil (past the turbo seals & rings.) You may find that you have good compression, have rebuilt the turbo & still don't seem to have much power. The 1964 we rebuilt only had 60,000 miles and had been previously owned by meticulous owners. When we pulled the heads, the intake ports were nearly choked off with oil, carbon and old fuel var-nish. One only had an opening of about 1/4 "! It still ran and the turbo would almost kick in, but what a difference after the rebuild!!! We also had about 1/2 cup of aluminum flashing that we cleaned from between the fins. A Turbo rebuild is not too bad if you have these tools - Large snap ring pliers, dial indicator, possibly a torch, and of course a Shop Manual. We can supply most of these parts and/or rebuild your Turbo for you. Here, however, are a few of the tips we have picked up that aren't in the Shop Manual: 1. Left handed lock nut: Often we have to heat them to remove.2. Exhaust impeller stuck in housing: Glass bead inside outlet side. Rotate if possible. Saturate with oil overnight and tap or press dead center of impeller with handle of hammer (often necessary to heat housing where clamp goes).3. 1962-64 impellers were supposed to be a press fit. 1965-66 were not, they just slip on and off.4. Check housing where turbine shaft "piston ring" seal rides. ADD A TURBO?? So you want to add a Turbo to a non-Turbo engine? First, you should realize that for best, long range results, an engine should be totally designed for the Turbo. That's what Chevy dld. We have talked to people that have put Turbos on just about ever y combination. Here's a quick summary: With Powerglide: The few I have talked to said it doesn't work out well. 80 & 95HP: Okay - a lot of modifying and final results about like a regular Turbo. 110 & 140HP : Dropping compression - Excellent results and durability. Keeping stock compression - performance superior over stock Turbo, especially low end. Some loss of durability. SUMMARY LIST: This list gives a detailed list of parts you will need to build a Turbo engine (including carburetor & exhaust systems) C7799 2 oz. What's Different? 1962-63: Bigger connecting rods, nitrided crankshafts, special camshaft, special exhaust valves, bronze exhaust valve guides, special heads (Turbo oil drain - right head, special heat sensor hole, left head compression), special exhaust, other minor changes. Recommendation? If you want good long-term dependability and driveability, stay basically stock. If you MUST add a Turbo to a non-Turbo engine TRY to round up all the parts before you actually decide to start. We can supply about 95% of the parts. The remaining 5% can be rough!Turbo Crossover Pipe Hints62-64 If you have a leak where the crossover fits into the inlet pipe, install the first clamp 1/8" from the end of the crossover pipe end. Install a second clamp close to the first clamp and rotate 45-90 degrees.65-66 Installation onto the inlet pipe is much easier if you can remove the manifold stud that is closest to the passenger side from both manifolds.Turbo Fuel Return Parts - Separate Special Filter #2, page 46 Steel Line: See Pre-Bent Return Lines, page 47. Rubber Hose: Enough for both ends of steel return line. For 1962-66 All Turbo. C687 8 oz. Rubber "T": Connects to the gas tank vent tubes for the fuel return line. A MUST! Old ones are usually brittle. Also order steel connector C9A that slides into C9R. Not used on some 1965-66. Rubber T C9R 4 oz. Steel Connector: Exact with end "beads" C9E 1 oz. Steel Connector: Plain cut ends C9A 1 oz. All Stainless Clamps: Both ends of C9R "T" C8207 2 oz. Steel line to rubber hose C8206 1 oz. (C2564C suggested) Original Clamps: 1962-64 Turbo. Original style clamps that fit better than most "small" gear clamps that are usually too large. (Included in fuel return line kits on page 47) C2564C 2 oz. each 62-66 Pressure Retard Hose: 2 needed 62-65 Fuel Return Line: 4 needed 65-66 with Return Line as part of the tank: 5 needed Clips: 62-64 (line to speedo cable) C688A 1 oz. each (9 needed) 65-66 (inside tunnel) C7125 1 oz. each (4 needed)Turbo Tech SectionC9R C2564CC9EC2564CC9RC9AC688AC7125C10888