BRAKES – Silicone brake ﬂuid is a good upgrade for all cars & FC's.
FACTORY METALLIC BRAKES are very rare so it is unlikely that your car has them. The only way to tell for sure is to measure the wheel cylinder
bore and the master cylinder bore. Factory metallic car front wheel cylinder bore is 1" (non-metallic are 7/8"). Factory metallic car master cylinder bore
is 7/8" (non-metallic is 1").
STEEL WHEEL CYLINDER PISTONS – The steel pistons in our repro wheel cylinders are less likely to corrode than the aluminum ones used
in less expensive wheel cylinders on the market.
CLARK BRAKE HOSES are now original size. For years the only size brake hoses available for the Corvair were 1/8" id. Clarks has now
reproduced them all in the correct original inside size of 3/16".
You Can't Judge a Brake Hose by its "Cover" – We have always known that old brake hoses can crack
or rupture without warning. We have learned that old brake hoses can swell so much that they can block off all or most
of the passage. If this happens on the front, it can pull dangerously to one side. If you don't know your brake hose
history, REPLACE THEM! And always replace both sides (especially on the front).
1969 FRONT BRAKE CYLINDERS – 1969 originally had a special brake hose & wheel cylinder (see photo bottom of page 143). We have the
correct 1969 front hoses & wheel cylinders in stock.
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER – Ours is the closest to the original available with wire cover retainer. Most on the market are larger, heavier and
have a bolt on cover. See page 145.
BRAKE HOSE WARNING EARLY 1961 FC'S
Chevy found the front brake hose on the early 1961 FC could rub the back of the rim with full steering. They offered a clip that attached to the hose & a
spring helped pull it. The brake hose bracket on later 1961's & 62-65 FC was welded on differently to keep the hose out of the way. If you are replacing
the hoses on an "early" 1961 FC, thread the hose securely into the wheel cylinder and then twist the hose slightly before installing it into the bracket.
Next, turn the steering full lock in both directions to insure it does not come close to the rim, tire or frame. If you have the old clip & spring, you may want
to continue to use those. See the sketches that follow.
"Early" 1961 FC
The bracket is welded
so that the hose &
steel line are nearly
parallel to the ground
at the bracket.
Later 1961 & 62-65 FC
The bracket is welded
so that the hose & steel
line are at about a 45°
angle to the ground at
A. FC Front Brake Line Clip (61-65) – not an exact repro, but looks good & works. 2 needed. C3375 2 oz. ea.
Brake Line Warning – Replace those brake lines, especially if your car or FC has the original brake lines; DO NOT WAIT! Replace
them even if they look perfect on the outside. The reason, brake ﬂuid attracts water (even today's car manufacturers suggest bleeding the system
every 2 years!) If the water stays in one area of a line for too long, it can easily rust from the inside. Don't put yourself, your passengers or your
classic vehicle at risk.
Wheel Cylinder/Brake Hose Installation Warning for all cars & FC's
If you are replacing a wheel cylinder, you must remove the brake hose from the body. If you leave the hose attached to the body and just spin on
the wheel cylinder, you risk the hose being twisted while tightening. This may force the hose against the tire rim or suspension.
WINDSHIELD WEATHERSTRIP INSTALLATION (1960-64 Cars & 61-65 FC) – Most photos & books suggest a small (1/8") cord/rope to help install the
weatherstrip. We have found that if you use a 1/4 – 3/8" on the bottom & switch to 1/8" about 6" up from the bottom corners, that the larger size helps
hold the weatherstrip open so it sits onto the metal edge easier. Using the bigger size means you don't have to try to force open w/ the 1/8" cord until
you get to the corners, side & top (which will still be the 1/8" cord).
1965-69 TRUNK & ENGINE WEATHERSTRIPS – Be Warned! Our weatherstrips are custom made just for us. We have the correct front one & the correct
(different) rear one. A customer approached me at the National Convention that had gotten his weatherstrips elsewhere. They did not ﬁt correctly, didn't
look right & his trunk lid would not close (it should be tight, but not impossible to close!).
CONVERTIBLE TOP INFO
62-64 PUMPS – Our new early convertible top pumps use automatic trans ﬂuid; the original pumps in the cars used brake ﬂuid.
ACID RAIN, POLLUTION & SUNLIGHT – If your convertible stays outside, make sure to rinse the rear window (and the whole top) often. Even though the
material on repro tops is better than it was years ago, the environment in most places is not!
OUR TOP BOOTS VS. OTHERS – Several customers have shown me old top boots & wanted to know if they were ours. It was obvious that they were not for
the following reasons: ● The snaps were attached to plastic; ours are attached to steel like the originals.
● There is no plastic strip behind the snaps to allow them to slide more easily.
● The binding is not correct.
● The strip to attach it to the rear seat is not original & not chrome riveted.
● The material is thin & stretchy.
Please Note: Cheap top boots have been offered for years. They are cheap! It takes a lot of skill and special parts to make a correct, long-wearing top
boot. However, even ours can get damp & shrink like the originals if they are not taken care of.
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